Varanasi is the oldest continuous living city in the world. It is 5000 years old.
Buildings along the bank of the river Ganga
For 5000 years, people in Varanasi have been
performing the same rituals
chanting the same mantras
speaking the same language
reciting the same prayers
Varanasi is Jerusalem and Mecca for Hindus.
Early morning sunrise boat trip along the Ganges. Overcast skies made for monochrome boats
Our hardworking oarsman
Varanasi is the biggest center of pilgrimage on earth. Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism are the three major religions of Varanasi.
As the day begins, thousands of pilgrims come to pray and take their holy dip in the waters of Ganga-ji
This city never sleeps. As Arvind says, “It is a city of learning and burning.” Varanasi’s universities attract thousands of people and the two ghats along the Ganges River burn with cremation fires continuously. Here, in Varanasi, the drama of life never stops from womb to tomb.
The west bank of the river is filled with old palaces and homes and represents the material world. The east bank of the river is bare of buildings and represents the spiritual world.
Varanasi street dog
Varanasi is a city of devotion, a city where 62,000 people walk to the Ganges River daily to honor the river. Once every 144 years, there is the grand Maha Kumbh Mela, where millions of Hindus make the pilgrimage to nearby Allahabad to dip in the holy water of the Ganga-ji, the Hindu name of the Ganges. The Maha Kumbh Mela is happening right now over a period of 2 months, so the city is more packed than ever.
Ganesh
Last night we attended the Aarti, the evening ceremony that takes place every evening at sunset, to say goodnight to Ganga-ji. The British took the name Ganga-ji, the honorable name given to the river that is The Great Mother of India, and renamed it The Ganges. Ganga-ji is more than a river for Hindus. It refers to a female deity. She gives life, cleanses impurities, takes away sin. She is a maternal figure. She is mother, and she is celebrated and honored every morning and every evening with devotional ceremonies.
feet: riding on the bicycle rickshaw with Arvind, on our way to the Aarti, the elaborate nightly evening ceremony and well attended ritual to put the River Goddess, Ganga-ji, to sleep.
Arivind told us that Ganga-ji, the goddess in the form of the river Ganges, is also known as Liquified Wisdom. How I love those words: Liquified Wisdom.
We were among a crowd of some 75,000 people. This morning, in my head, I can still hear the drum beat and loud devotional music set to Bollywood tunes ringing in my ears as thousands of Saraswati devotees paraded the streets celebrating the festival of the Goddess of Wisdom. We linked arms and did our best not to lose anyone in our group. Miraculously, we all stayed together. I think our guide Arvind was a shepherd in another life, as he is very good at keeping us together.
Thousands attend the Aarti, the nightly ceremony to say good night to Mother Ganga, the Ganges River
Seven Brahmin priests perform the nightly Aarti. The 7 priests and 7 platforms represent the 7 levels of consciousness. Bells and conch shells deafen ears and mantra is sung over loud speakers. Oddly, one is left feeling peaceful among the crowd praying to The Great River.
Brahmin priests at the Aarti Ceremony
Varanasi is also known by her spiritual name, Kashi, the City of Light. Yesterday, Peggy gave me a beautiful hand written prayer that she carries around, a Muslim prayer that reads more like a poem. I read this poem and carried it around in my pocket all day yesterday. The prayer/poem is a universal prayer and you don’t have to be a Muslim, or any religion at all, to feel the power of the words. I felt it calmed and grounded me as we explored the inner sanctum of Varanasi. In fact, amid all the chaos yesterday, I felt completely present in a way I have never felt before on my three previous trips to Varanasi.
The Duaa of Light (to Fran from Peggy)
Oh Allah, Place light in my heart
Light in my tongue
Light in my hearing
Light in my sight
Light behind me, light in front of me
Light on my right, light on my left
Light above me, light below me
Place light in my sinew,
In my hair and in my skin.
Place light in my soul
And make light abundant for me.
Make me light and grant me light.
Bob taught me a new word yesterday: phantasmagoria. India is Phantasmagoria! Here is the definition of phantasmagoria:
1 : an exhibition of optical effects and illusions. 2a : a constantly shifting complex succession of things seen or imagined. b : a scene that constantly changes.
Here is yet another definition:
phantasmagoria. Dream-like visions can be called a phantasmagoria. … Even when you’re awake, if you see odd or fantastic things — either real or imagined — they’re a phantasmagoria. The word was invented by a French dramatist in 1801, who used the Greek word for “image,” phantasma to make the French word phantasmagorie.
Phantasmagoria happens when events, images, information, sound, and sensory overload keeps coming at us faster than we can process them. India offers up a visual representation of events that are OVERWHELMING. The mind can go into rejection mode or frustration mode and we can become confused, unhappy, disgusted, dissatisfied with the moment’s experiences…OR, the mind can enter the state of phantasmagoria, where images of stark contrasts start to merge, where one enters a dream-like state of mind, where a possible stillness and a deep feeling of being completely present occurs. In this state of mind, you simply are both the observer and the participant, you cease trying to make sense of everything and there is a serene sense that everything is as it is meant to be at that very moment and even if it isn’t, it no longer matters. Phantasmagoria isn’t necessarily a negative phenomenon. In fact, yesterday as I was experiencing phantasmagoria, I dug my feet deeper into the earth, cleared my mind, shut off my internal dialog, tuned in to my breathing, centered my being, took it all in, and became one with everything and everyone around me in Varanasi!
“Love the way you describe the incredible experience of this 5000 year old city Fran and I am sure that Tone is enjoying it to the fullest.
Tomorrow is her birthday and somehow we have not been able to connect. Will you please wish her a happy birthday from me and a safe trip home. I’ll be there at the airport to welcome her back! Andre
Your tomorrow is our today! That means today is Tone’s birthday. I am so glad you told me because I had no idea. She is doing great and having the best time ever. I will let her know you wrote.
Hi Fran – I’m enjoying your posts from India. After reading this one, I wonder if the phantasmagoria of Viranasi’s rituals contributed to the development of sophisticated meditation, simply to deal with it all, Jerry
Could very well be! The mind boggling numbers of people and human activity brings you to your innermost place of refuge. I feel my posts from India have been choppy and not so well written because I am always trying to “fit” in a quick writing..i may have more time after the group leaves and when I am with my friend Anita and her family. I will be with Anita and the Saini family as of tomorrow. Am here until end of Feb. love, Fran
Fabulous update and gorgeous photos, as usual. Glad the trip is going well. Safe travels.
HI Kathleen, The group leaves late this evening. About to teach my last yoga session for the group this morning very soon. So hard to believe how quickly this time has gone by. And tomorrow, a second adventure begins as I stay on in Delhi and meet up with my college-days friend, Anita Saini, and her family! Can’t wait. Then off to the Maha Kumbha Mela with Kelley, Arvind and his family. We are back in Delhi but I am still buzzing from being in Varanasi